Throughout the ages, women have been creating clothing out of necessity and modesty, however, they have added their special artistic abilities and skills to materials, textiles, patterns and fabrics to make clothing into not just something that is practical, but also fashionable! I am no fashionista but I love to look at nice clothes and appreciate good pieces of design and fabrics when I see them. I also appreciate women who have the skills to create clothing, and those who are fashionable. Over the years, I have known persons who create bikinis to ball gowns – there is much admiration for them and let’s be honest, fashion is here to stay.
I chose to write about fashion this month as I have been two exhibitions that showcase the history of women who were influential, skilled or worked in the industry. The first was at the V&A Museum on the recent Marie Antoinette Style. You may be familiar with Marie Antoinette and her alleged famous line “Qu’ils mangent de la brioche” which translates to “Let them eat brioche (cake)” at the height of food shortages during the reign of French King Louise XVI. I studied Louis XVI for A ‘Levels and knew of all the extravagance of the Sun King, which was still apparent with Marie Antoinette was queen. The dress of the rigid court at that time was in an era of elaborate details with rich adornments. Marie Antoinette’s famous life story is one of ‘glamour, spectacle and tragedy’, which explores her excess, influence on fashion and natural beauty as describe by her features and evidence in her complexion on the painting of her that were displayed. However, she gives us a focal point from a grand feminine protagonist during the pro-revolution movement in France.
Marie Antoinette’s fashion brought the imagination to life for what it was like to be European in the 18th Century. The fabrics and needlework were amazing to see from the very ornate threads of the gowns with the wide and possibly heavy structures that a small frame would have carry around. The details in the fabrics were fascinating to see with some of them embellished, or threaded with gold and other patterns. Undergarments and corsets were stiff and the size of their waists were tiny compare to what we might consider average today. I particularly like the coloured fabrics and they can look like something that you may still find on the high street today.
Jewels were also made of long chains that were used to dress the whole upper body. Interesting to see that Marie Antoinette was encouraged to wear a diamond brooch of a feature rather than a real feather. There was a whole section on the shoes of the period and again their feet were tiny and perhaps they were transported everywhere as it was in pristine condition rather than used and muddy. I know some of these items may have been in museum or special collections as historic artefacts – so it more than anything it allows us to think of how fashion is still similar, but have evolved over time. I particularly like the fans on display in the exhibition and for sale in the V&A shop, and bought one for use when it gets hot using the underground in summer.
The exhibition also acknowledged the impact of colonialism during this time and some of this is demonstrated in her designer’s choice of fabric from the India to the Caribbean, and even the image of her wear a hat from north Africa. If we start to unpick the imagery – it gives us clues on how the court was influenced by fabrics and other materials brought from the colonies. Undoubtedly, Marie Antoinette had access to some of the best materials and designs that existed at that time. Her fashion style has an ongoing inspiration for modern designers and artists such as Manolo Blahnik, Vivienne Westwood, Karl Lagerfield and others. If you want to see Marie Antoinette’s fashion and learn more about her life, the film starring Kirsten Dunst by Sofia Coppola is great. And to ensure that her famous cake statement is not forgotten, some designers have created dresses fashion on cake. Just in case we forgot the fate of Marie Antoinette, the guillotine used for her death was on display.
The revolution remains part of the French psyche of Liberte Egalite Fratenite – and so too is the creativity that brought this exhibition together for us to learn from history.
My second exhibition was closer to home at the William Morris Gallery with the current exhibition on ‘Women in Print – 150 years of Liberty Textiles’ presented in partnership with Liberty Fabrics to celebrate the design house’s 150th anniversary. The exhibition aims to show the ‘pivotal role and contributions of women textile designers’, and it really was a celebration and acknowledgement of the staff designers who not only worked for Liberty but also created fashion culture and innovations in designs that are still loved today.
The rooms at the gallery is great to enabling the fabrics and details to have a wow factor when you enter the rooms. Some of the designs are obviously before my time but some contemporary designs were in another room. From the mini, prints, scarves and shape of designs – you can see how women fashion designs have changed over time because of necessity, innovative ideas or new creativity. especially after wartime Britain and the colonies.
In this exhibition, it was heart-warming to see the use of the Liberty Archive from their design patterns, catalogue of materials, women design who may not have had their moment shine and their actual archive of fabric samples. The archive and catalogues are still used to inspire new audiences to their designs. We probably take everyday fashion in retail houses for granted but Liberty was able to have great influence in the Swinging Sixties with prominent celebrities like Mary Quaint and Biba giving the designs more exposure with bright colours and prints.
Some of their designer range from scarves designers to print design such as Trinidadian Althea McNish (who has a whole exhibition dedicated to her recently at the gallery) – with her prints still sold and loved today. Their designer Ann Macbeth was known for both the women’s suffrage and her commitment to Arts and Crafts Embroidery. There is also a great picture of embroidery which came out of their art needlework department. Although the mini was common in the 1960’s, the prints in Liberty also seemed to have taken on the psychedelic subculture that was evident at that time. The exhibition was great at showing the great design history of Liberty but how much they invested in women designers to understand new ideas and creativity in their time that are still classic today in the store. I don’t go often to Liberty’s but this celebration of Women in Print makes me want to visit their department to see their fabrics and to see their fashion archives!
On reflection, I know these exhibition helped me to think of the evolution of fashion over the centuries…decades to the present day. There is a sense of solidarity and freedom for womankind that these real characters have somehow impacted on present day fashion and styles. There are opportunities to research and learn on what was created before (especially from archives and museums), and pay tribute to past styles but also to inspire new designs. As my friend once said… Fashion has nowhere to go, but in circles!













































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































